There are many things that obviously differentiate Canada from Vietnam. People's mannerisms, how business is conducted, how streets are cleaned, even what is considered edible, or what constitutes a social faux pas are just a few differences that anyone would notice from even a few hours here. Sometimes the cultural differences are exhausting and make me miss parts of Canada (there's only so much inane bartering I can do in one day) but other times I run across circumstances that make me very glad to be in Vietnam. My experiences taking a very old motorbike across the entire country have meant that I have inevitably had to meet and use the services of countless hardworking motorbike mechanics.
The typical mechanic shop is unlabelled, but obvious to identify based on the large amount of dark, greasy parts in what appear to be unsorted piles. A few we've been in also sell what every shop/house ever seems to sells: a few drinks, processed snack foods, laundry detergent or cigarettes, but the majority of the shops are mostly just random tools, bikes, hoses, and tires spilling out of a tiny 10x10ft space on the side of the road.
Problem situations that we've had with the bikes have all followed a similiar trajectory. The first step occurs when we notice that something has gone wrong. Perhaps we've looked at the chain, and remembered that it needs oil, or tightening. Perhaps the bike isn't starting properly, or we've noticed a nail through one of the tires. Next, we look around for one of the aforementioned mechanic shops. Usually, there is one within a few meters. It does not matter what part of the country we are in, the longest we've ever had to walk to get to a mechanic has been around 50m. Sometimes we gather a small group of Vietnamese guys who tinker with the bike first, as everyone seems to know how to do minor repairs, but if not, it off to the mechanic we go.
When we get to the shop, we are usually met with our mechanic, a thin Vietnamese man with grease stained fingers and an ever present cigarette dangling from his mouth. We gesture at the part of the bike that doesn't seem to be working that well, and soon enough, we are sitting on a small plastic stool he has provided, watching him tinker with the bike. Never have we had to wait more than a minute or two to be helped, and never has the complete lack of english stopped our mechanic from operating effectively. It blows my mind how well these guys know bikes, and how quickly they get to the root of the problem. If something doesn't work right the first time, they adapt and adjust and do whatever is necessary to create the fix. I've watched them hot glue gun a cracked plastic gas tank grip -maybe not the prettiest fix ever, but the best option for a necessary part that you can't order anymore! No appointment is ever necessary, never do we have to wait to get helped, and never have we had to leave the bikes and come back later. Occasionally, we've even had iced coffees and cigarettes (for Brandon at least) shared with us, with smiles and gestures being the only real way of communicating.
After 10-20 minutes, give or take, our bikes are in perfect working order again, and we are left with a bill that is usually only a few dollars. I think my biggest bill was $30, for a complete engine rebuild with numerous new parts (that took the better part of the morning), and the smallest, only $0.50 for chain tightening and oiling. Vietnam is really known for its scams and for consistently overcharging tourists, but the one industry that could overcharge without us being able to fight it much seems to be the only one that is more or less honest. I'm not sure if its because of how few tourists own bikes here -maybe the mechanics just not used to dealing with tourists -but I am grateful. Vietnamese motorbike mechanics, you have made tour through Vietnam so much more safe and have put my mind at ease numerous times -for that, I salute you!
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